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Overlanding in Africa.
Author: jon richards
Description: My journey to becoming an Overland Tour Leader/ Driver.
The end of the road.
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So just like that it ended. In Livingstone, one quick call from the boss and Im on my own for the 1st time since starting out 15months ago. For the 1st time in my life im without a job and it does feel strange.

So what happened for it to end like this? Well I can tell you there were quite a few factors- but having a lot of USD stolen from the truck at a Truck wash place in Swakopmund Namibia certainly didn't help. Being tour leader means taking responsibility for every action that you take, and in passing on responsibilites so I could have a good time during my final months, circumstances worked against me and things happened which were avoidable. 

Take they day we arrived at a flooded lodge in Northern Namibia, and I took the pax off on a little evening sunset boat trip over to Angola. I left my crew mates to load a boat up with pax luggage and take it across to the lodge, which I knew would take several trips, but hey one of us had to be with the pax having a beer and checking out the crocs along the river bank! Imagine my surprise when I look up and see my crew mates, the boat driver and a load of pax luggage, floating down the middle of the river shouting for help. Yep their boat was overloaded and up-turned leaving me with a whole load of upset people to deal with! Ahh the things you have to deal with in this job. 

I loved it when a main water hose on the truck burst right in the middle of the Namib desert, just after I had warned against  the pax of using too much water! We had to use 20L of our drinking water to fix the problem. 

Never allow your crew (mechanic) to change fuel filters while parked at the bottom of a steep slope when you only have quarter of a tank of fuel left! It will take 4hrs of hard graft the next day to get the truck back up to the top of the slope on top level ground again. 

Don't upset other crew on the road by disconnecting their truck Batts (so they wont start) as a prank, as they might report you to head office! Its just not very professional.

Doris London| 04/05/2009
Oh crikey Jon. I'll miss your tales. Good Luck with your next endeavour .
WYN ROBERTS| 05/05/2009
Jon - Africa's loss is our gain. Can't wait to see you back in the UK where I'm sure you'll be more detailed in explaining how the call from your boss came about.
30/04/2009 2 Comments | Add Comment
Events!
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So all is somehow well on the road- busy as ever which is why i don't get much time to write this. When I do find time the moment has passed and it seems strage to write about whatever event happened. But events do keep happeneing, they really do, thick and fast and sometimes they send me crazy, sometimes they make me laugh and others I just cannot believe!

After my last blog about that crazy East African highway, guess what happened in Southern Tanzania. Yep rounded a corner only to find a petrol tanker and a local coach/bus smashed up across the middle of the road. Unfortunately there were bodies everywhere and it wasn't pretty. I asked our pax if they wanted to help and they all did, so we grabbed the 1st aid kit and cut up towels and blankets. One girl was a med student and accessed numerous casulties concentrating on ones we could save. It was nasty- i was pretty useless as I cannot stand seeing people in pain. After an hour some had been loaded onto other buses  and taken to a town 70kms away. Whether they made it alive we will never know. One policeman turned up the whole time we were there- and he conducted traffic past the crash. I was glad once we could leave as some of us had seen enough.

A recent event occured over the Victoria Falls, I decided that I had worked hard enough to reward myself woith a microlight flightover the falls to see them in all there magestic glory! 

Oh boy did I see them- truely amazing, spectacular etc... I also saw my life flash before me as I was certain we were doomed when the wind picked up suddenly while I was flying the bloody thing and the crazy Belguim dude who was the instructor was pointing out Elephants down below! We veered very sharply up and to the side so the wings were vertical to the ground. All you have to hold you in is a seat belt like the ones you get on the waltzer at a bloody fairground! I bricked it big time, and my heart took ages to slow down. 

Not suprizingly that was the last flight of the day- im sure even the crazy Belguim dude who flies those things for a living was freaked out. 

Im currently in swakopmund, Namibia or greater German. Freaky town but kind of cool too. The desert is so much fun and the coastline is desolate. Much fun if you like riding high-powered dune buggies and Quad bikes.

 

Frank Keenan| 28/04/2009
Jon, bout time we had another update, been missing your stories.
18/03/2009 1 Comments | Add Comment
The Great East African Highway
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Or prehapes not so great!

With my short break to Mombassa complete I have now travelled overland across this most important transport link connecting the Kenyan port of Mombassa to the Democratic Republic Of Congo as either a passenger on a bus or driving my truck, and I have to say it is a long crazy, exciting road to travel on. I cannot imagine how long it takes the huge petrol tankers which supply all of Rwanda's, Uganda's & Congo's fuel supplies to traverse this route as I have seen the massive line up of trucks at every border, just going no-where. I have also seen the steep long inclines & descents which constantly prove too challanging for either the trucks or their drivers as that is where there is often an over-turned trailer or stationary truck jacked up on bricks with a dozen people under it changing anything from a shawn-off prop to a complete diff! Major work but it gets done somehow right there in the road. 

Considering how major a route this is, it is also difficult for us spoilt Westerners to believe just how bad the road condition is- in places! Now before I get too critical there is a hell of a lot of work going on along vaste stretches of the road, the Chinese & Europeans have moved in with there super road building trucks and all seem keen to get in on fixing up at a furious pace- im sure there are some interesting reasons why! But still it is scary sometimes being behind a massive fully loaded 2 trailer truck on a steep long straight hill as I always fear the trailer detaching & rolling back into my vehicle or bus, esp when it is jumping all over the place because of the pot holes. I would love to see a return to Rail in this part of Africa as the sheer weight & number of HGV's that pass will always cause death and chaos to those locals who live by and use this route. 

Anyhow im currently in Rwanda again and today have been back to the orphanage and along with some pax of mine have installed a mossie proof net across the ceilings. Thanks John Cross & Ian Appleby for there donation- your cash brought all the netting and tack's & could well prevent many of the children from catching Malaria. Awesome job.

Being back working again has been great- i really don't rate that unemployment game! I just love being busy and fixing up my truck. I have changed window winding mechs, injectors, repaired pax seats and the drivers side door. We are in good shape & the trip is going well although there are some tricky pax on this one so stay tuned as they are with me down to Cape Town! I hate people who are constantly looking for the negative!

Must dash now but it is nice to be reporting back from East Africa and it's nice warm climate!

Enjoy the snow:)

 

 

John Cross| 04/02/2009
Pleasure John, good to see it go to good use. Glad you are back in the groove and having fun! JC
Natasha Forster| 16/03/2009
Long time no hear JR.........we are missing your blog and you - tell us more!! x
03/02/2009 2 Comments | Add Comment
Return to the road.
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So after a returning home to the UK in the very sad circumstance where I have seen my dearest Mum pass away, it is now nearly time to return to the long and exciting roads of Africa. I will return with the spirit & passion that my Mum instilled in me and was so proud of me for.

In the meantime I have been busy uploading some photos and trying to sort them into albums for easy viewing & so i can update them easier on the road. Check them out.

As for my 1st trip it's back to Kenya, Uganda & Rwanda for the Gorilla trip, which just happens to be my favourite! It should be exciting as the trips have been updated and we are visiting some new places. I'm dead keen to get back into life on the road & driving lovely truck Christie. An added bonus is that I'm back with my co-driver (now leader) Jimmy, whom I work so well with.

  

Doris London| 31/12/2008
So sorry to hear that Jon. I hope 2009 brings you great things.
30/12/2008 1 Comments | Add Comment
Orphanage photos uploaded.
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So in true African time I have managed to upload some photos of our visit to the Rwandan Orphanage. Seening the pictures again reminded me of what a great trip that was and how awesome the group I had with me were. We did actually meet up again with the 3 Danish girls (who left the trip in Nairobi to climb Mt Kenya) in Zanzibar where we had a huge party. Those girls sure were a lot of fun.So now I am in Zimbabwe, and this time I have actually got to see some of this most beautiful country. Wow what an amazing place to visit. So much interesting history and so much to do and see. We have only been here a 4 nights and we have been lucky enough to have met 2 amazing guides who have taught us much about the history and makeup of what is Zimbabwe.1st the guide at the Great Zimbabwe Ruins (whose father was killed as he opposed the goverment here) gave us a fantastic insight into this 13th Century ruin that is by far one of the most special historical places I have seen outside of Europe. This Castle like structure is like nothing else in this part of Africa. The stone work which is built into the mountainside is truly magnificent and the tour was so informative- a must if you are travelling to Zim.Equally special was the guided tour we did of the Matobo Hills- the most spectacular landscape I have seen in a long while. Our guide Ian Hammer took us in jeeps around this National Park and showed us how to track Rhinos which graze in the vast bush. Once we found them some what crazily we got out of the Jeeps and tracked them by foot. This was awesome and Ian was so enthusiastic about this endangered Animal- he really took us close! What was also amazing about this very spiritual place is the history of the Bushmen who lived here over 10'000 years ago. We learnt so much from Ian who has studied there way of life for over 26 years. We visited remote caves where there are Bushman paintings from that time- still perfectly preserved. The paintings of Giraffe, Lion, antelope ect were just fascinating.Truly Zimbabwe is a blessed country apart from its current leadership. I really can see that this place will once again be Great and perhaps now is the best time to invest!Going food shopping here has proved pretty difficult. After changing my 25USD into local Zim $ (as all the stores have been threatened if they accept foreign currency) i was just about able to buy 3 tins of Baked beans, a tin of peas, 2 small jars of peanut butter and... well that was it! Driving between towns though, we were able to buy locally grown fresh veggies off the locals who were so pleased of our custom. Right now I am in Victoria Falls, and here life is so different- all the 5star hotels are operating and in them an abundance of food is available. We did visit the Boma House of Eating again last night- one of my fav restaurants- and ate and drank far to much. It was the end of yet another fantastic tour. So good in fact all the pax due to leave- just don't want too!   

 

oliver brendon| 15/10/2008
Boma House - what a great place. I seem to remember that fortune teller forecasting that you'd come accross some money in the near future and have 3 children. Any sign of either yet?
jon richards| 16/10/2008
Well I got a $90 tip at the end of the last trip and negotiated a free meal in Boma so I am feeling flush! I did go and see that dude again and he said similer stuff so it sure to happen. I think Zim is the place ti invest.
Wyn Roberts| 26/10/2008
Keep the blogs coming Jon - not seen an update in 2 weeks. Gonna be on Dyer's stag do in Barca on Friday. Will miss you not being there but in your honour we'll cause chaos in the irish bar for you.
Jessica Nevels| 28/10/2008
Rwandan Orphanage project looks amazing! Got your email wrong so just sent you messsage though this blog, cheers from Cape Town, xx Jess
Doris London| 23/11/2008
Hey Jon I'm sure your busy doing good work but I wanted to check as you haven't posted in a long time. D.
14/10/2008 5 Comments | Add Comment
Rwanda Info
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So I got this email from Maxine- who was my  ex-passenger- who I meet up with in Rwanda and it explains everything that went on. She can also be contacted if you want to see some pictures- I will upload some when I get to Dar- Es- Salaam but right here in Arusha time is short and the connection a bit slow! Thereis also details of how to donate some cash if you missed out!

That last trip was so good it was unreal. The group just gelled so well and im so pleased The feedback questionaires were all excellent in every department. As a crew me Jimmy & Dougie are pretty good and life on the road is sweet- even though I have got another 4 Canadians! 

Check the Email- personally my favorite memory which will stay with me forever was The Little Old lady who looks after all the kids everyday for nothing, her face when she walked into her bedroom after I had put some shelves up. She smiled and gave my a big hug.  

Hi everyone
 
Well Chris and I are back safe and sound and have had the most amazing adventure!
 
After a lot of stress about the weight of the parcels and the fear of customs we arrived in Kigali (Capital of Rwanda) Saturday morning looking forward to a lay down and a good cup of coffee (the coffee bit has been a topic of conversation every day!)
 
We meet up in Musanze (also known as Ruhengeri) with Greg and Egide who run Amahoro tours and have been our contact for the last few months, helping us to get this project up and running, and decided that we would see the children the next morning and give out their packages before deciding what we would spend our money on.
 
I must say I was very nervous before seeing the children, I wonder how they would react? Had I forgotten anyone? Or in fact was this not a good idea and money would have been a better option?
 
My fears disappeared the moment I saw them, quite a few remembered me from the last visit and were delighted with the photos I had taken of them back in February! After a little organisation we had them all sat down, while I explained why Chris and I had come and what we wanted to achieve while we were here. I talked about their news friends in England and the lovely gifts they had been sent.
 
Each child was called up by name and given their bag, red for the girls and black for the boys, we did have a couple of hairy moments when a couple of the names were incorrect and a boy ended with a red bag and a visa versa for a girl, luckily they were the same age and we could just swap them.
 
There was no mad frenzy to open the parcels, all children waited until they had all received their gifts and then taking out one item at a time they investigated their bags. Chris has some amazing photos. I do think the children must have thought the British are obsessed with pants!!
 
They were all very grateful and wanted lots of photos taken with their new presents. For all those of you who sent a parcel to a child thank you once again, they loved your gifts and I have some letters of thanks from some of the older children and photos for all.
 
The next day the Dragoman truck rocked up with Jon and Jimmy (group leader and co-driver) Jon had talked about the orphanage to his group and they were up for some painting! With a load of paint, brushes, buckets and power tools the Dragoman team worked hard for two days and left the orphanage a brighter cleaner home with some excellently made shelves by Jon! Thank you guys, you all worked so hard and I hope you will keep in touch with our progress as you have already made a difference!
 
It was now time to spend some money!
 
Your donations helped us to achieve the following:
- connections to mains water
- new doors and windows
- new school uniforms for all the children over 6
- new mattresses and blankets
- a pig
- a cow
- paint
- a mirror
 
Connection to mains water - previously water was obtained from a well 4kms away and haphazard collection of rainwater.  Clean water will now be available on site - but usage will have to be paid for as in the UK.
 
New doors and windows.  Most of the windows were covered with pieces of wood or battered out tin cans.  The two external doors were of a similar construction and not secure.  Now every window is glazed and new doors have been fitted.  This will be particularly important in the winter months, when the nights are very cold.
 
New school uniforms.  These were made up by local seamstresses and the costs were covered by a donation from Alex and Jo specifically earmarked for this purpose.
 
New mattresses and blankets.  There are bunk beds the orphanage, but not all had mattresses and blankets - until we bought them.
 
A pig.  We bought a weaner that will be capable of producing a litter of 8-10 pigs every 6 months.  This will provide a source of income from the orphanage (called Chris)
 
A cow.  This will provide milk for the kids and additional income from occasional calves. 
 
Paint.  Whilst we were there the Dragoman truck (overland truck) rocked up and the passengers were cajoled into two days of decorating.  Most of the paint and equipment was provided by a separate fund raised by the dragoman driver. We provided additional paint as required.
 
A mirror.  Just for fun for the younger kids.  They loved it
 
All purchases were made locally - and we always took a local with us to ensure we paid the right price.  It has to be said that Rwanda isn't a cheap country - most goods have to be imported - but we are really pleased with what we were able to do with your money.  I'm sure we got value for money and everything we purchased was in the order of priority indicated by the social worker running the orphanage. Chris and I covered all our travelling expenses, so every penny went into the local community for the benefit of the orphans.
 
Chris and I spent a lot of time with the children and developed some strong relationships, I can't tell you how wonderful these children are, and after meeting the local officials we learnt that there are over 761 orphans in the Musanze area, and the aim of the district is to try and house them with foster families and send them to school, however funding is tight and although the government pays 1/2 the other has to be found else where.
 
This brings me onto the future, Chris is going to take responsibility for fund raising primarily for the building and structure of the centre, Honeycroft will develop its ties to the children, through fund raising, maintaining friendships and sending necessary supplies, and I would like to produce a format, similar to that of the orphanages in Uganda to introduce "Sponsor a child" this would mean that once set up and put in place anyone around the World could sign up and sponsor a child from the Musanze area, which would pay for their schooling, books, further education or apprenticeship and a small amount of finance for the foster family. (approximately £15.00 per month)
 
I will be working with Greg, Egide and Roz (Greg's new assistant) to develop this proposal, that hopefully will lead to someone in Musanze co ordinating it for me. I will keep you all updated with my progress and if anyone has any useful contacts or advise please let me know.
 
We have some wonderful photos and stories to tell, I will be hosting a slide show and talk at Honeycroft on Monday 6th October at 7pm if anyone would like to attend? I will be charging you £5.00 however refreshments will be provided and all money made will be going to the Orphanage fund.
Please e mail if you would like to attend it would be lovely to see you and if you sent a package I will have photos of your children ready to hand out with their letters (not all children sent letters)
 
Once again thank you for all your support! We really have made a difference!
 
Love Max x
 
Honeycroft Children's Centre - Monday 6th October 7-9pm
Sackville Road
Hove
 
Bank account - Chris West Rwanda Account
Sort Code - 209748
Number - 93462145
 

 

26/09/2008 0 Comments | Add Comment
Welcome
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So it is goodbye again to crazy Kampala and my short but busy break and hello to the road again. It’s kind of strange knowing that my next real day off will be the 5th of November and I will be in Cape Town!

Kampala is one of those cities where it is actually hard work just living here. It is a fantastic place but after 2weeks it will be nice to get out and see the countryside again.

Having just sent out the new group to explore Kampala I have 5mins before I head off and complete my shopping for the orphanage. I have got the group really into helping out with decorating- everybody is looking forward to getting stuck in and 3 of the girls have just come from a volunteering program where they spent a month building a school, they are now my project managers!

It’s all looking good and the group seems like a good mix of nationalities- mainly Brits & very good looking Scandinavians! My only Canadian has yet to turn up. No more said about that!

Sasha Brendon| 09/09/2008
Jonny, are you still coming home this winter or not now? Loving your work! Sash xx
jon richards| 23/09/2008
Wow just ran a trip where I was rated excellent on every account- a massive difference from the last few! The Orphanage project was just amazing- I just cannot get the time or computer speed to upload the photos & update my blog! I really want to as the work we did really improved the home so much- the little old lady who looks after the kids- her face when I put up a load of shelves in her room will stay with me forever. It just showed how little I value all my belongings. Crazy world! I am hoping to come back Sash as I miss everyone too much. I will know more soon. jr
Doris London| 25/09/2008
That's great! Practice makes perfect. I'm sure they were all very inspired by the work you have been doing of late. Excellent keep it up.
08/09/2008 3 Comments | Add Comment
Rwanda Appeal Update
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Thank everybody so much for all the money you have raised- it means so much to me and I know it will really cheer up home & hopefully the kids when we get some of this work done. Ive been out and bought 40L of Emulsion paint and loads of other decorating stuff- filler, rollers, brushes & today im off to get some shelving, screws drill bits etc... plus 6 mattresses.

TIA is a phrase everybody uses out here and it means 'This is Africa'! Ive just spent thee most frustrating morning driving round Kampala looking to fill the cooking gas up but no- one has our connections so it looks like we will be cooking on charcoal on this next trip!

Some of the roads around these industrial parks were so bad it was unreal- my poor truck!Still I found a little food takeaway place in the industral area where all the workers were having their lunch so I pulled up and had a truckers lunch of Matoke, Kuku, Spinich, Irish, beef & goat soup!! Mmm it was delicious- although Ive had enough carbs to last all week! All that cost about 3000UGS about 1UKP!

Ive got a new co-driver too called James and we went out and had a few beers last night and we got on well so I'm now just hoping for a some decent clients on this next trip who won't mind getting stuck into some painting and decorating while on their holiday! 

I'm now going to go now and print off my itinerary for the next 2 trips down to Vic Falls- yes we are back into Zimbabwe so im well happy about that!  

04/09/2008 0 Comments | Add Comment
Orphanage Appeal
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OK so I had some success in uploading some photos I took at the Orphanage. I will look forward to taking some more after all the hard work is completed. Check them out now.Of course I have managed to have some time off in Kampala one of the best cities to experience a night out in due to sheer number of pubs and clubs, the friendly nature of the people and the fact it is a very safe city to travel around- apart from some crazy Boda Boda drivers! Yesterday was one of Kampala's social events of the year- a Goat Race meeting held at at the Muyonyo speke resort, a swanky hotel on Lake Victoria. Everyone who is anyone dresses up and turns out- just like royal ascot back in England. All the big corporations- banks, mobile phone companies etc have hospitality tents and thousands turn up to party like only Ugandans can. It was pretty impressive- although Goats really cannot be raced! They tend to stop and start eating the grass! It literally takes the officials with a giant wheel barrow to push them around the 1 furlong long course. I didn't pick one winner so was a bit out of pocket, but I did manage to gain entry into the Zain Hospitality tent where I danced the night away with free booze flowing and some pretty hot girls. Nice times!  

 

oliver brendon| 01/09/2008
I get the feeling that there's a little bit more to this story! Great photos - well done
31/08/2008 1 Comments | Add Comment
Rwanda Appeal
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Wow so this has really taken off, I have received so many generous donations, my Nan has got her friends involved and they are having a raffle to raise some money and I think we will easily have enough to make a real difference. Amazingly I will be returning there at exactly the same time as Maxine a passenger from a previous trip who I first visited this Orphanage with. She was also inspired to help and has been busy raising funds in the UK. She is flying over next week to work on improving the home and also sponsor family's to take in the orphans and provide a home for them. I will be there too and while my passengers are off Gorilla trekking I will be busy painting and building bunk beds. This week while I am in Kampala, I will be busy buying all the things we will need as it is way cheaper here than in Rwanda. (Mind you everything is very expensive here compared to the Uk- they really need a B & Q over here!).I am now going to attempt to upload some photos I took at the Orphanage- although I am connected to a rather temperamental wireless connection so we will see.

 

Wyn Roberts| 31/08/2008
Great work Jon. I've put a few quid in your account so hope it all helps. I bet Maxine can't believe her luck that when she returns there you are going to be there again. Some girls have all the luck eh? Keep us updated.
31/08/2008 1 Comments | Add Comment
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